A Booker Prize-winning novel centred on food has drawn accusations of elitism, but the literary establishment has mounted a fierce defence of its artistic merit. The book, which explores themes of class, consumption and identity through the lens of a farming community in the North, was criticised by some as a 'curated snapshot of privilege' that ignores the realities of food poverty and low wages.
The debate erupted after a prominent political commentator claimed the novel 'celebrates gastronomy while millions can't afford a decent meal'. The criticism has been echoed by union leaders and food bank charities who say the book's focus on artisan produce and foraging 'speaks to a world divorced from the cost-of-living crisis'.
But leading authors and critics have rallied behind the book, insisting its literary value should not be judged by its subject matter. 'This is a novel about the moral complexities of food, not a handbook for the wealthy,' said one critic. A senior figure at the Booker Prize foundation added that the novel's 'raw depiction of northern working-class life' was anything but elitist.
The row has tapped into a deeper unease about the state of British food culture. With inflation still squeezing household budgets, the price of a loaf of bread has become a political flashpoint. Last month, a bakery chain was forced to U-turn after raising the price of its cheapest loaf by 10p amid accusations of profiteering. Meanwhile, food bank use has hit record levels.
The novel's author, who grew up on a council estate in Yorkshire, has defended their work, arguing that the book 'is about the dignity of labour and the desperation of hunger'. In a statement, they said: 'If my book provokes a conversation about who gets to eat well and why, that is a conversation this country needs to have.'
The debate shows no sign of abating. The Booker Prize judges have been accused of being out of touch, while others argue the criticism is a 'dangerous attack on artistic freedom'. Whatever the outcome, one thing is clear: the price of bread, the strength of unions, and the real economy are rarely far from the page.
