A Nepalese climbing guide has been pulled from the death zone of Mount Everest after a six-day nightmare that involved multiple failed rescue attempts and deteriorating weather. Sources confirm the operation was finally completed last night by a British rescue team, who have been credited with saving the man's life.
The guide, identified as 32-year-old Pemba Sherpa, was found at an elevation of roughly 8,000 metres above sea level, where he had been stranded since last Tuesday. According to expedition logs and internal communications reviewed by this newspaper, Pemba had been part of a commercial summit push when he became separated from his group after a sudden storm struck the upper slopes on 14 May.
Initial rescue efforts by Nepalese authorities were hampered by heavy snowfall and the inherent dangers of operating above the 'death zone', where supplementary oxygen is required and the risk of frostbite and pulmonary oedema is extreme. By the third day, hope was fading. A source within the Nepalese mountaineering association told me: "We had almost given up. The weather was not cooperating, and the window for a rescue was closing."
But the British Alpine Rescue Team, a volunteer organisation funded entirely by private donations, had been monitoring the situation from base camp. They mobilised their own high-altitude climbers, including several former military personnel with experience in extreme altitude rescues. Against the advice of some local officials, they launched a daring ascent on Friday.
For three days, the team battled 80mph winds and sub-zero temperatures to reach Pemba. They found him semi-conscious in a shallow crevasse, suffering from severe frostbite on both hands and feet, as well as early signs of cerebral oedema. One rescuer, who asked not to be named, described the scene: "He was barely alive. He had given up. We had to force-feed him warm liquids to keep him going."
The descent took a further 18 hours, with the team using ropes and pulleys to lower Pemba down the icefall. He was evacuated by helicopter from Camp II to a Kathmandu hospital, where he is now in a stable condition. His family have expressed gratitude, but questions remain about the initial response by Nepalese authorities.
A spokesperson for the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism said today: "We commend the British team for their bravery. We are reviewing our safety protocols for such events."
But critics say this is not an isolated incident. Documents obtained by this paper show that at least three other commercial guides have been left stranded in similar circumstances in the past two seasons, all requiring foreign intervention. The Nepalese government earns millions each year from climbing permits, yet its own rescue infrastructure remains dangerously underfunded.
One thing is certain: if not for the determination of a small British team, Pemba Sherpa would not be alive today. They are heading home now, without fanfare. That is how it always is in this deadly business.
