The steady flow of second-hand clothing into East Africa has long been a point of contention among regional policymakers. For decades, imports of used garments, predominantly from Europe and North America, have underpinned local markets but undermined domestic textile industries. Now, a confluence of factors is shifting the calculus, presenting an unexpected opening for British manufacturers.
Countries including Kenya, Rwanda, and Uganda have periodically attempted to restrict imports of used clothes, often termed mitumba, to nurture local production. In 2016, the East African Community proposed a phase-out by 2019, a deadline later abandoned under pressure from trading partners and industry groups in the importing countries. The United States, for instance, threatened to re-evaluate trade preferences under the African Growth and Opportunity Act if restrictions were imposed.
But the debate has not subsided. In December 2023, Rwanda reinstated a ban on imports of used clothing, citing the need to revive its fledgling textile sector. Kenya and Uganda have considered similar measures, though implementation remains inconsistent. The core challenge is structural: East Africa’s textile mills operate at a fraction of capacity, unable to compete on price or variety with the glut of inexpensive second-hand garments.
This is where British textile firms see an opening. The UK’s domestic clothing manufacturing has contracted sharply over recent decades, but a niche of high-quality, durable, and sustainable textiles has survived. Companies such as Leeds-based Baird Group and Lancashire’s Standfast & Barracks have begun exploring export opportunities to East Africa, positioning their products as a premium alternative to mitumba.
“We are not trying to compete with the low end,” said a representative one Yorkshire mill, speaking on condition of anonymity. “There is a growing middle class in places like Nairobi and Kigali that wants locally made, well-crafted clothing. British textiles have a reputation for durability and design that could capture that market.”
This strategy aligns with broader government efforts to promote British exports. The Department for Business and Trade has identified East Africa as a priority region for its fashion and textile sector, offering trade missions and matchmaking services. In 2024, the UK-Africa Fashion Exchange program facilitated partnerships between British designers and East African retailers, focusing on ethically produced garments.
However, the opportunity is not without risks. East Africa’s used clothes import market remains vast, valued at over $500 million annually. The mitumba trade employs hundreds of thousands of informal workers, from street vendors to sorters and repairers. Abrupt restrictions could devastate livelihoods, as seen in Rwanda when its ban led to smuggling and job losses.
Moreover, British exporters must navigate complex trade dynamics. The UK’s preference for East African nations under the Developing Countries Trading Scheme provides duty-free access for many goods, but textiles from Britain face tariffs of up to 25 per cent. British firms are pressing for lower barriers, though negotiations have stalled amid broader trade disagreements.
For now, the path forward remains uncertain. East African governments are caught between industrial ambitions and political realities. The British textile industry, for its part, is cautiously optimistic. “This is a long game,” the Yorkshire mill representative said. “If East Africa can forge a coherent policy that supports local production gradually, there is a space for high-quality imports. But it requires patience and partnership.”
The message from Whitehall is similarly measured. A spokesperson for the Department for Business and Trade said: “We support sustainable economic growth in East Africa and believe British textiles can contribute to that. We will continue to work with regional partners to create opportunities for trade that benefits both sides.”
As East Africa weighs its sovereignty and economic priorities, the used clothes dilemma endures. For British textile firms, the question is whether they can be part of the solution.
