Madrid is a sea of pilgrims. Over a million have descended on the Spanish capital for the Pope’s open-air Mass, and the atmosphere is electric. Among them, a significant contingent of British Catholics waving Union Jacks. They are here for a piece of history.
Westminster sources tell me the Vatican is watching. This is a test of the Church's pulling power in a secular Europe. The British pilgrims, organised by local dioceses, have been on coaches overnight. “It’s about being part of something bigger,” one told me, clutching a prayer card.
The Pope, frail but defiant, was driven through the crowds in the popemobile. He looked tired. The heat is oppressive. But he smiled, waving to the faithful. The security is tight. Snipers on rooftops. Spanish police are out in force.
Inside the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia earlier, he spoke of 'renewal'. A direct message to the scandals plaguing the Church. The Spanish bishops, nervous, want a show of unity. The numbers suggest they have it.
For the British pilgrims, this is a pilgrimage of defiance. Back home, the Church struggles with falling attendance. But here, in the Madrid sunshine, they are part of a global family. The Mass is about to begin. The choir is warming up. The crowd is hushed.
I am watching from the press stand, shared with reporters from across Europe. The German contingent is whispering about a possible Papal visit to Berlin. The French are chain-smoking. The British lobby is out in force, notebooks out.
There is a sense of history. This Pope has defied expectations. His retirement is now a distant memory. He is still the leader of 1.2 billion souls. And on this street corner in Madrid, he is the guest of honour.
The Mass will last two hours. The pilgrims will then disperse, back to their hotels, their homes, their daily struggles. But for now, they are united. And the cameras are rolling.
I will file a longer report tonight. For now, the atmosphere is what matters. The Pope is about to speak. The crowd is silent. And the sun is beating down on a city that has embraced the faith with open arms.
