Poland has revived the infamously numbered bus route 666, known as the ‘Highway to Hel’, connecting the coastal resort of Hel to nearby towns. The announcement has alarmed British tourists, who are being warned to expect an explosion of satanic kitsch along the route. But for locals, the story is as much about tourism revenue as it is about devilish decor.
The route, suspended last year after complaints from religious groups, now runs again with the full backing of the local mayor. The number 666 is considered the ‘number of the beast’ in Christian tradition, but the mayor argues that the satanic symbolism is a marketing goldmine. Shops along the route already sell t-shirts with ‘666: The Highway to Hel’ and restaurants have renamed dishes like ‘Devil’s Platter’. British tourists, alerted by travel advisories, have been warned to avoid the route if they are offended by satanic imagery.
But the real concern for many is cost. The resurrection of the bus route has been funded by a significant increase in local taxes. Residents of Hel pay an extra 200 zloty per year (about £40) to subsidise the route. Meanwhile, the bus company, PKS, has hiked fares by 15% on the 666 service. For a family of four, a return journey now costs £25. That is a steep price for a ride past painted devils and inflatable pitchforks.
The Polish tourism board claims the route attracts 50,000 visitors a year, but the actual number is disputed. Independent surveys suggest only 10,000 passengers use the line annually, meaning the cost per journey is heavily subsidised by taxpayers. Critics argue the money could be better spent on essential services. The mayor, however, points to the 50 new jobs created in souvenir shops and cafes along the route.
British tourists are the largest foreign group visiting Hel, drawn by its sandy beaches and Baltic sunsets. But many now fear a descent into what one travel blogger called “satanic kitsch capital of Europe”. The Foreign Office has updated its travel advice to mention the route, warning of “mildly offensive merchandise and religious parody”. This has provoked a backlash from tourists who see it as overreach.
For workers in the region, the debate is a distraction from the real economy. The average wage in Puck County, where Hel is located, is £1,200 per month. That is 30% below the Polish national average. Meanwhile, the cost of living in Hel has risen 12% in the last year, driven by tourist inflation. Behind the satanic gimmicks, locals face rising rents and stagnating wages.
The bus route is a symbol of a town struggling to find its economic footing. The mayor’s calculation is simple: the devil pays better than the church. But for the pensioner who relies on the bus, the price of a ticket is the only number that matters.
